Blue Jay

I use the term ‘bird feeding’ because when I think of traditional ‘birding’ and ‘bird photography’ I think of birding enthusiasts dressed up in camouflage and hiding in bushes for hours on end. Not that there’s anything wrong with that! Never say never, but that’s just not for me at this point in my life. Why not have the birds come to me in the comfort of my own home  instead?

Chances are if you don’t live in a skyscraper you can easily set up a feeder near a window and shoot through the glass. If I can do it, you can do it. As a matter of fact I was able to capture this photo of a Blue Jay the very day after I put up my feeder.

There are a few things to think about before setting up a feeder.  First off, do you have a window that is easily cleaned? How clean the window is really affects your image quality. Make sure there’s no window screen either, or that it can be easily removed. On the other side of that window do you have a comfortable place to sit for long periods of time? The more comfortable, the better.

Photographically, keep an eye on where the feeder is in relation to the path of the sun. If your feeder is in the shade when your local birds decide to visit  you’ll have light issues to deal with. Keep an eye on your background too, do you want a background that looks natural or one that contains that shiny red car in your neighbors yard? Luckily can usually situate the feeder so that a more natural background will be visible or you could always invest in a container plant that can be moved into position or just planted where you need it. Lastly on the photographic side, my next step is to make natural perches for the feeders. What would look better, a photo of my local birds perched on a commercially bought metal feeder or perched on what looks to be a tree branch? The tree branch for sure.

Safety is another concern. Keep your feeder a little out in the open, think of where a predator could hide (like cats) and make sure none of them can sneak up on your birds!

Squirrels Suck

Squirrels. Nothing strikes fear in the hearts of those who buy nice bird seed than ’squirrels’. I’ve got nothing against the little furry buggers, they need to eat too. But once they perch on your feeder not only will they keep your birds away, they’ll sit and eat and eat and eat. There are baffles, domes, tubes, powders and all sorts of home remedies to deal with squirrels. By far the best is a feeder that spins as soon as it detects the weight of a squirrel, hilarious yes – the price is not. Usually over $100. That’s a season of bird food for how sparingly I put it out.

Almost as entertaining is spraying your feeder pole with some good ol’ kitchen lubricant. Pam. If you want to save money, get the cheap off-brand stuff. At first all the neighborhood squirrels will jump on the pole and slide down with a suprised look on their faces. Eventually they’ll get the picture, or wipe off all the Pam from multiple attempts. I’ve found that Pam won’t last a full day and certainly not overnight. I have noticed that the grass is dying where I have the pole inserted in the ground. I only put feed out on the weekends, not only to keep the birds from being too dependent but because the weekends is usually the only time I have to photograph them. A spray of Pam each day in the morning and I’m all set. I will eventually need to get a baffle for the pole though.

Gardman USA

Two more thoughts. First, squirrels are smart. They can vertical jump a few feet and I’ve read that they can jump six to eight feet away off a shed or tree and land on your feeder. While I’m saving money by not letting them feast on my good seed, I certainly don’t want to replace bent and broken feeders from incoming squirrels. Second, if you set up a dedicated squirrel feeder elsewhere in your yard it may convince them to keep away. I have not tried this yet, but it sounds convincing.

There are many types of feeders, I won’t get into all of them but I’ll certainly tell you what works well for me. In my yard I have two feeder stands. They’re both Gardman USA stands. At a bout 6′ tall once staked to the groundthey’re really good entry level feeders that come with a seed basket, a tiny water dish and three hooks for hanging other types of feeders.

W1 'Winner'

To prove that long lenses are not required, I also have two Window Feeders – ever want to shoot macro bird shots? I find that the Droll Yankees W1 ‘Winner’ feeder is the best I’ve found. It’s adjustable to keep the bigger birds out (my local Doves have found the feeder so I need to shorten the base to make it smaller) and it doesn’t have a plastic back! Most other feeders use a plastic back for support, what good is that when you’re trying to photograph? Now you have a cheap piece of clear plastic blocking your view. The W1 uses the center brass support and suction cups to get around this. Is that brass center bothering you? Carve out a stick and wrap it around the center post. The dome above the feeder keeps out rain and the bottom tray has drainage holes. My plan is to sand the top dome to give the plastic more of a frosted look which should soften the light a little when I’m making photos.

House Finch in W1 Winner (Macro)

Depending on how close you want to get to the window feeder you can use a telephoto from the other side of the room or a macro lens to get up close. Instead of sitting still for long periods of time, purchase some two-way mirror film and cut a square to tape behind your feeder. As long as the outside is brighter than the inside you’ll be able to see your birds and they’ll just see a mirror reflection of themselves. Pull it tight and tape it to the window, you will lose probably one to two stops of light and the film will be reflective while you are shooting so be aware of that potential problem. The window film can be found at any Home Depot or other hardware store. Just ask for Mirror window film.

Northern Mockingbird

Two other feeders I have are a suet and a hummingbird feeder. The suet feeder is a cage for suet bricks. Since suet is fat and not found in the wild you need to convince your birds to try it by smearing some peanut butter to the suet cage and then sticking some bird seed to that. The hummingbird feeder is a simple hanging feeder. The glass is tinted red to attract the birds. While you can use commercial products you can make just as good feed at home. Boil one part sugar with four parts water to dissolve. Never add food coloring as this has been linked to tumors in birds. Make up a bunch, it keeps well in the fridge. I find 1 liter water bottles to be perfect, if you decide to use soda or juice containers, be sure to rinse them out well.

Now food choices will vary depending on your location. Don’t skimp on a book about birds found in your state!

Backyard Birds of..

Not only will this help with identification but it will tell you which birds eat which seeds and how to make your location desirable to each species. I really like the ‘Backyard Birds of‘ series.

You’ll soon learn which birds get chased off by other birds, separate their food between feeders. Even if you plan to only shoot on the weekends, keep the feeders full for a few weeks. While it took less than one day for a Blue Jay to find my feeder, it took about a month for Gold Finches. Patience is key. Set your camera up on a sturdy tripod, zoom into your feeder, focus and keep your hand on the shutter button or a remote release. Note that if you study tour birds you’ll find a pattern. Most birds will land on a nearby support before going straight to the feeder. Use this to your advantage. Keep your feeders cleaned, keep fresh water available. Standing water is better than nothing, running water (bubbler, dripper) is best.

One last note is to encourage birds to follow their normal migratory habits. Your local book will let you know when birds will be migrating to your state. For example Hummingbirds fly past Maryland in Spring and then again in Fall. There’s no sense keeping your hummingbird feeder out while they’re gone or you may help convince some slackers to stay behind.

-J

Canon 7D body and kits:
7D Body only – $100 instant savings
7D Body with 28-135mm IS – $100 instant savings
7D Body with 18-135mm IS – $100 instant savings
7D Body and 70-300mm IS USM – $200 instant savings
7D Body with 28-135mm IS and 70-300mm IS USM  – $200 instant savings
7D Body with 18-135mm IS and 70-300mm IS USM- $200 instant savings

Lenses only: (Note, if purchased WITH a Canon 5D MKii, these instant rebates double!)
200mm f/2L IS USM – $500 instant savings ($1,000 with Canon 5DMKii)
85mm f/1.2L II USM – $130 instant savings ($260 with Canon 5DMKii)
16-35mm f/2.8L II USM – $100 instant savings ($200 with Canon 5DMKii)
50mm f/1.2L USM – $100 instant savings ($200 with Canon 5DMKii)
TS-E 45mm f/2.8 – $80 instant savings ($160 with Canon 5DMKii)
24-70mm f/2.8L USM – $80 instant savings ($160 with Canon 5DMKii)
100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM – $65 instant savings ($130 with Canon 5DMKii)
15mm f/2.8 Fisheye – $45 instant savings ($90 with Canon 5DMKii)
135mm f/2.8 (Softfocus) – $35 instant savings ($70 with Canon 5DMKii)
100mm f/2 USM – $30 instant savings ($60 with Canon 5DMKii)

Speedlites:
580EX II – $25 instant savings ($50 with Canon 5DMKii)
430EX II – $15 instant savings ($30 with Canon 5DMKii)

RolleiCord (CC: Camerafiend)

My most recent camera purchase was an early model Stereo Realist from 1951. For my birthday though, I wound up with something much more current. I figure three years newer is enough. My latest camera is a Rolleicord IV from 1954. I’ve wanted a beautiful Medium Format camera for a bit to use in the studio and in nature.

What is medium format? Without getting too technical, medium format takes a 6×6cm sized negative. It’s much larger than those taken by a normal 35mm. Now there are many flavors of cameras that can take smaller or larger sized images on the medium format film but 6×6 is certainly the standard.

The camera was purchased off Craigslist for $200. This marks my second Craigslist purchase with good success. The photographer selling it was actually running a roll through it as I knocked on his door. You’ve got to love that sort of dedication and he was thrilled when I told him that it would be used and well cared for. I wouldn’t want such a beautiful camera collecting dust either! He was selling it to make some extra cash and he was offloading some less-used gear. As I left he asked if I had any film for it, when I said no he gave me two rolls of Kodak Panatomic-X film, rated at 32 ISO and expired way back in 1986. I thanked him and was on my way.

The camera needed a good cleaning and some basic cosmetic repairs. Some time with cleaner and the lenses had them as clear as the day they were manufactured. The ground glass cleaned up very nicely as well. The camera was completely disassembled, cleaned where it needed to be cleaned, oiled where it needed to be oiled and put back together. There are a few chips here and there and the brass screws are corroded under the leather coverings. Those don’t need attention right now, but I figure on a rainy day I’ll touch up the painted areas and peel off the leather, clean up the screws and re-cement the leather back to the body.

Fast forward a few days and we have a beautiful blanket of fog over everything, I didn’t think I would be shooting with the camera this soon.. I loaded up a roll of the Pan-X and filled the roll. A 120 roll of medium format film is 12 exposures. With trusty light meter in hand I made a few exposures and when I came back home I developed this 25 year old film in Agfa Rodinal 1+25 at about six minutes. I gave it an extra minute just because the film was so old.

I couldn’t be happier with the exposures, the film base was a little fogged due to age but the negatives were just stunning. Below is my favorite image of the day and once again when I think I have everything I could ever want I now need to add to that a medium format carrier and lens for my enlarger!

Sans-Reel

It seems that in the developing world everyone is always interested in something new. Just like there are countless plug-ins for Photoshop, there are countless things you can do to Analog (Film) Photography to adjust the outcome of the image. Different films, developers, developing techniques to name a few..

There are even some people who damage the delicate emulsion on film on purpose. Why? Because scratched, burned, boiled, cracked and decomposed film can really give some amazingly artistic effects.

So, being adventurous I wanted to give damaging film on purpose a try. My method? I wanted to see how film placed in a developing tank without a reel would handle the development process. You can see how I loaded the film with the image to the right. I doubled the film back on itself in the dark until I had everything cinched between two fingers. I slipped the film with my fingers into my stainless steel tank and let it loose. You could also try crumpling the film and just shoving it in there, but I figure that this method had the least possibility of film touching film. You certainly don’t want it to spool against itself because then your developer won’t get to where it needs to go, we’re looking for a roll of ‘artistic film’ not ‘complete fail film’.

Developing is a little different as well. You certainly want to fill the tank with chemicals to guard against any part of the film sticking up out of the mix. Traditionally I invert the tank for 30 seconds when I pour in the chemicals and then three full inversions every 60 seconds until my time is up. For this process though I did one full inversion and then one half inversion every 20 seconds. That means that after every inversion the tank goes from upside down to right-side up. This also guards against any film sticking up out of the chemicals. And why an inversion cycle every 20 seconds instead of every 60? My hope was to basically give the film more of a chance to get hit by the developer. As for your other chemical steps, stop bath and fixer, I stayed with my same schedule for the developer. 30 seconds initial and one and a half inversions every 20 seconds.

Results?

Note that the sections of blue are where the emulsion sides were touching each other. With the ‘ribbon’ pattern used to place the film in the can every loop has a section of the emulsion that touches the opposite side. Not a bad effect if you ask me. There were also other areas of the film that didn’t quite touch and instead developing was thin to those sections. I suspect perhaps a pre-wash would help keep these from sticking, but I quite like the way these came out.

Dropbox

Dropbox is an online storage service that finally does it right. Once again wary of yet another online storage service I signed up for their free 2GB storage account to check them out.

The sign-up is simple enough and they give you a program to download to your computer. This program synchronizes a folder on your hard drive with Dropbox. When the program starts up it makes sure your Dropbox folder is synchronized. Since you can install Dropbox on many computers, this is a great way to make sure you have the latest version of a file at all times!

Lets say you’re on a computer without the program installed.. Maybe a hotel or friend’s computer. Your Dropbox can be accessed by web and you can upload and download with ease. There is also a public feature and you can select files to share with friends and family.

The folks at Dropbox are kind enough to offer free accounts with 2GB of storage and paid accounts with higher sizes. Sure, 2GB isn’t much space any more (I have more space in my cellphone) but I certainly have about a gig of files that I want to have access to at all times and I admit that sometimes I forget to grab my Flash Drive when I leave the house. This service for me may prove very valuable, all my important files will be with me anywhere there’s an Internet connection.

Security.. Their website says that all servers are encrypted and even employees of Dropbox are not able to access files and directories. Sounds good to me.

Overall, the service appears to be solid and stable. For me, I would never use over 2GB so I can’t justify paying Dropbox for a 50 or 100GB account. Sorry guys, I just don’t have that much stuff I need with me at all times. Security looks rock solid and well, I think it’s much more secure than a Flash Drive. Are your files password protected or encrypted on your Flash Drive? What happens if you lose it? There you go.. If you have files that you need to have with you at all times and most of the computers you use are Internet connected (which ones aren’t anymore?) check out Dropbox.

Link: Dropbox.com/GetDropbox.com

It’s not perfect, it’s quite overexposed. I didn’t use an easel or a grain focuser but I think I like it.

Enlargement

Exposure time was five seconds, way too long so I already know I need to invest in some ND filters to drop the light down enough to get proper exposure time to between 10-15 seconds. Lens was a 50mm 3.5 set at f/8. Paper is a 5×7 sheet of Ilford Pearl #3 RC. Developed in Kodak Dektol, since the print was so overexposed development time was mere seconds.

How’s the print you might ask? Even overexposed, the tones blow me away. Of course the process is fun too. The smell of an 8×10 tray of stop bath out in the open, the safelight casting a red glow over everything, the glow in the dark dial on my darkroom timer. The best part? Placing your exposed sheet of paper into the developer. Completely blank and watching it come to life right before your eyes.

Even if you have no interest at all in film or the whole wet-process, at least experience it once. Find a friend or take a class on working in the darkroom. Get an appreciation for what we had to do before digital. And if you don’t end up appreciating the process, you at least get to feel like one of those old time detectives working in the red-lit darkroom. So, there ya go.

My first roll of C-41 developed this century.

Two nights ago I developed my first roll of C-41 (Color Film) in years. If you would have told me that I would be back in the darkroom developing C-41 when I made the switch to (nearly) pure digital I would have laughed. I still shoot and process black and white for giggles and love how cheap and great for modifications the film is. I do still shoot slides for our local photography contests and for the thrill of seeing my images projected on a big screen.  Slides (E-6) get sent out for professional developing, however that may be the next processing kit I may purchase.

Its funny though, I don’t remember C-41 developing being this easy. How easy? Well, if you already develop black and white, have a thermometer and somewhat accurate timer (a watch with a second hand will work fine) – you can develop C-41. Guaranteed. There are too many articles on the internet today that scare people out of developing themselves – don’t believe it!

To compare, lets go over black and white developing first in case we have some readers that may be interested in the process but have yet to start..

Black and white film is first spooled onto a reel in complete darkness and placed into what’s called a daylight developing tank. This tank is light proof and once you’ve got the film inside and the lid on you’re ready to party. Black and white developing requires three chemicals – Developer, Stop Bath and Fixer. You get the chemicals to about 68 degrees, pour it into your developing tank.. Invert the tank a few times every minute until your developing time is over. Pour out the Developer and pour in the Stop Bath, this stops the developing process, that stays in for a bit and gets inverted every so often as well. Lastly is Fixer, it fixes or makes your image permanent. Same thing, pour out Stop Bath, pour in Fixer and agitate every so often. Once the Fixing step is done, pour it out and run the film through several water washes. Pull the film out of the reel, squeegee and hang to dry and you’re done.

Now black and white film and developer is pretty forgiving. It doesn’t need exact temperatures and if you forget an inversion cycle or develop shorter or longer than specified.. No big deal. Color on the other hand needs more precise temperatures or you may under/overexpose your images or cause shifts in color. You also develop for a much shorter time so being exact is much more crucial.

The C-41 process uses the same equipment as in black and white. Load your film into a daylight developing tank and close it tight. Since the temperature of the color developer needs to be hotter than the normal air in your house (102 degrees for most developers) we’ll need a way to not only get the chemicals up to that temperature but a way to keep them there as well. To do this, fill your kitchen sink with hot water from the tap. Use a thermometer to check the temperature. Toss in the closed bottles of chemicals and wait. We need to make sure that the temperature of the first two chemicals (developer and blix) are at as close to 102° as possible with the water in the sink as close to it as well.

Once you have 102° it’s time to pre-wash the film. Dunk the daylight tank in the water in the sink until it’s full. Let it sit for one minute. This will bring the temperature of the tank and the film up to the same temperature of the developer. Pour the water out and the developer in, put the top lid on the tank and invert a few times every so often. When not inverting, keep the tank in the warm water so it doesn’t lose its temperature as quickly. When done, pour it out and then in goes the Blix. Same thing in regards to inversions. Once that’s done, out with the Blix and now the film isn’t sensitive to light anymore and you can disassemble the tank. You need to wash the film for three minutes at the same temperature, but it’s not as important as the Developer. Anywhere close to 102° will work fine. Let the water flow into the tank and also dump the tank every now and then so that you can verify that you’re getting clean water to the bottom of the film reels.

After your wash, dump out the water and fill with room temperature Stabilizer for about a minute. Pull the film out of the reel, squeegee and hang to dry. Don’t worry if the film looks monochromatic (one color – usually orange) because as it dries some of the colors will start to show.

From here you can go on to print your negatives, I never really cared for enlarging so I stop here and scan in my film. I’ll make sure the negatives are to my liking and then send them off to the lab for printing.

What is the benefit? I won’t lie. Developing film can be done on the cheap but you’ll want to put a little money into decent materials to do it right and keep your sanity intact. Chemicals are nasty and a pain to mix from powder form. They don’t even last that long and are only rated at developing so many rolls of film before you have to start over again. Everyone I know doesn’t look at it from a cost standpoint. It’s for the love of the game. Putting in a magical strip of plastic, sloshing around some special liquid and then out come wonderful photographs.

But you can save money too. Once you develop enough rolls to offset the equipment costs (tank, thermometer, bottles, etc) you can get down to developing for much cheaper than any local lab and you’ve got the benefit of knowing that it’s done right with fresh chemicals. Chemicals can lose their potency with time. Two things can be used to combat that – don’t mix up chemicals unless you have a bunch of rolls to scan and make sure to get all of the air out of your bottles during storage. Oxygen kills these chemicals. If you can, squeeze your bottles to bring the liquid to the top before putting on the lid. You can also use clean, clear glass marbles. Fill up your bottles with enough marbles to bring the liquid to the top. Done.

Minolta-16 (Captain Kodak CC)

Have you ever shot a roll of film only to forget about it? Then you find the roll, forgot what is on it and debate if you want to get it developed or not? One man’s trash may very well be another man’s treasure. Would you pay to develop a roll of your own film that you’ve forgotten about? How about a roll abandoned in a camera?

Two weeks ago I purchased a Minolta-16 Sub Miniature camera on a popular auction site. I was looking for a different style camera altogether and ran into this gem. It had one bid at a few bucks so I upped it by a dollar or two. A day later I receive an e-mail stating that I won it. I researched a few specifications of the camera, found out that finding a camera with a film canister inside was rare, looked at a few replacement options, hand-loading and since I was leaving for my ABQ trip in a day I promptly forgot about it.

I was back home on Wednesday and finally opened the camera. Low and behold, there was a film canister inside. With a quick peek I realized there was also film inside of the canister. This really fueled my curiosity, what could be on the roll? Long story short, I load the film on the reel, put it in the new tank and develop in Rodinal 1:50 for 13 minutes.

After development was done I rinsed the film, ran my squeegee over it and hung it up to dry.. At this point I had no idea if anything even turned out, while it hung to dry the frames looked quite dark. Once it dried I set up my light box and shot every frame to digital.

Below is the gallery of images.  Underneath the images I will post my own conclusions on this film. If you have any information on the location in this shot or approximate years please comment below. The Camera itself was introduced in 1957 though the high serial number (#213xxx) of the unit may indicate a year or two later.

It appears that the mystery images are scenic landscapes covered by snow. Later in the roll you start realizing that the photographer is shooting most (if not all) of these scenes sitting in the cabin of a train. In some shots the frame of the window is visible and so is track and in two image the rest of the train (it’s a long train!). The film itself is Kodak TRI-X 400ASA/ISO 16mm film. On the film itself the words ‘Kodak N. 15 Safety Film’ are visible as well as machine stamped numbers, both 61409 and 61410 which appears to be foot counters.

Belkin Mini Surge & USB Charger

Yesterday I received my review unit of the Belkin Mini Surge protector with USB Charger. I was pretty excited to open the packaging, as you may already know I’m a sucker for travel sized goodies.

The unit looks nice and is well designed.. Except for an aspect or two that are very important to me. We’ll get to that shortly. In the meantime here are the features of the device. A 360-degree rotating plug with 4 locking positions, a three outlet surge which provides complete surge protection through all outlets. The unit offers compact, lightweight, efficient design and in addition to two USB charging ports, a  mini-USB cable to charge virtually any USB device—including BlackBerry® and Motorola® RAZR phones. Product and $75,000 equipment protection warranties.

Looks like Belkin has a clear winner here and the price isn’t bad. At under $20 it’s protection that won’t break the bank. The product will be great on the road where power outlets are at a premium. Ever stay at a hotel fully expecting to top off your batteries only to find the bare minimum of outlets. The Belkin will certainly help with that. And the USB Charging ports? You can’t beat that.

Now, my concerns. First off, I just could not find any information prior about the back plug and if it collapses or not. If this unit was truly designed to be a space saver, wouldn’t the plug collapse back into the Belkin body? It doesn’t. Speaking of the plug, as much as I applaud Belkin for thinking about plug orientation the mechanics of the design concerns me a bit. Over time wear and oxidation will happen to the plates that the plug rotates on. While I’m sure they’ve thought about it and there’s no problem – I would really love to hear from their PR team what we can expect from the device if the connection gets dirty and intermittent.

I love heavy, well built electronics and the Belkin is no exception but I feel it may be too well built for those of us who count ounces when we pack. The device feels unnecessarily overweight.

When I opened the rest of the packaging I was surprised that Belkin included a USB cable in the mix. But, bittersweet. The cable is a USB charge-only cable. How much more would it have cost to include a charge + dataa USB cable? Now I’ve got to leave the little label on the cable that says ‘Charging only’ or risk grabbing it in a pinch down the road and realizing it’s only a charging cable. I would have rather seen no cable or a fully working USB cable. Yes, I know your product only charges, but a full USB cable would work in your device too!

Lastly, size. How does the Belkin compare to alternatives? I placed my $1 Wal-Mart three-prong cube splitter and my stand alone Belkin USB charger next to the Belkin Mini Surge and USB Charger. I was surprised how much bigger the Mini Surge was to my current setup. I know that protection circuitry doesn’t take up THAT much room.

All in all, the Belkin Mini Surge w/ USB Charger is a solid unit that works and can be relied on to give you a power splitting solution that will work in any outlet. The two USB Charging ports are a lifesaver, as someone who knows how much room dedicated USB chargers take up, this is a definite plus. I also appreciate how Belkin packaged the device. Simple design, easy to open packaging and attention to detail (like the prong cover – I’m so easily amused). IF you are a weight/space junkie you might want to pass. The Belkin’s strengths is also its weakness. The solid design of the unit certainly adds to its weight and while I like a device heavy for its size I make an exception for traveling. As for physical size the device seems a little larger than it needs to be, for this size I would have loved to see a way to collapse the plug into the body of the unit. The included USB charge-only cable is a nice addition but it’s pretty useless. At least for me, any device that I bring with me on a trip that has a USB port will be connected to my laptop as well so I would not bring a charge only cable but a full charge & data USB cable. Also, in the future when that ‘charging Only’ label on the cable comes off I can guarantee that one night I will plug a device into that cable and after pulling my hair with why there is no communication to my device I will  realize that this was the famous Belkin USB charge-only cable I had received with the Mini Surge. Shortly after that realization the cable will then be yelled at, called names and ripped apart in a fit of rage. Maybe I should save myself the trouble and just throw it away.

The Belkin Mini Surge with USB Charger is available here: Amazon.com

Arundel Camera Club

I wanted to take advantage of the extra traffic from the Mobbies to invite anyone and everyone to a great local camera club.

The Arundel Camera Club meets at Severna Park High School in Severna Park, MD every Wednesday night at 7:30pm while school is in session.

All skill levels welcome, we have speakers, field trips and contests. Check out the schedule on the website and stop by one evening to say hello. You’ll meet plenty of friendly people to talk photography with!

One tip on visiting, unless you want a long walk – when parking at the high school be sure to park in the parking lot to the right of the school. Follow that back until you can’t go any further. Park in the large lot and come in the side door. Look for the posters directing you to the classroom.

Badly overcooked HDR photographers are usually banished to the hallway for punishment, please do not talk to them. (Just kidding)

http://www.arundelcameraclub.org/